After Dias, we were officially back on the road, packing, unpacking and changing locations almost every day. First night we stayed in Akrata, north of Peloponissos, in a lovely camping with genuine Greek hospitality and very beautiful sea. Akrata used to mark the half-way stopover on our way to Lehaina every summer: I never knew there was such beautiful sea over there.
Driving was a bit of hell, it was clear the kids got un-used to the camper and we had to build it up again. Especially Alex was looking around scared, with a what-the-hell-is-this-all look. He clearly had no memories of driving and because he cannot move while in his chair, it was no fun at all. The driving part was even worse the day after, nightmare really! As if this was not enough there was an increasing number of people packed everywhere. Which exploded that very night, because we could not find anywhere to stay. I knew it would happen one day and that was the day. The only available spot in an area of campings did not fit us, so, ups we have an issue. It took a lot of talking and talking, and before I collapsed from tiredness I was able to persuade a nice lady to let us free camp in the parking space of her camping – without electricity though. Giving us electricity was a red line, because she had reached max capacity and the night before a fire had started in the electrical cables. Fair enough, there were pine trees all over, no thanks, I’d rather live longer. HThe landscape was nice, with a wide beach, clear water and a bar. And four rows of umbrellas, you cannot have it all.
And then we went to Lichnos, our last destination in Greece, closeby Parga. We were 40km from
Igoumenitsa and had checked the tickets million times to verify we indeed depart from that port. You could notice an overall risk averse attitude from both of us, to avoid another drama – at least we learn from experience.
Lichnos is a camping with quite some reputation, because of its beautiful landscape. It lays in an amazingly beautiful bay, with rocky high edges, trees and thick sand in the middle. Really very beautiful.
The reviews mentioned very arrogant personnel, but we thought this must have been of a one off angry guy that got probably pissed off at the reception lady. It happens. How wrong we were! Let’s say the management there and reception people are the definition of the people you don’t want to have around you when on holidays. And in general. Their arrogant, unhospitable, ironic and fake attitude was impossible to miss and will be hard to forget. Every time we needed to interact with them we were almost fighting with Martijn: ‘No, you go this time’. ‘No, you’. *frustration*.
And how the camping operates, with extraordinary high prices, dirty toilets and overworked staff, is probably a good reason for a complete shutdown. Such a pity these businesses exist, solely relying on their popularity and monopoly, knowing that whatever they do or not, they will be full anyway. I feel very sorry about all foreigners (so 80% of the people there) that drove all the way from their countries to experience this. I also hope they won’t stay with this image as something representative of Greece, this would be such a great pity.
Nearby city Parga was no different. Beautiful, but over the top crowded. The amount of tourists was bizarre, a real invasion. Again: unless it is off peak season and you don’t want to be treated like simply a number, do not go there.
After 3 nights we left Lichnos, heading to Igoumenitsa. Every time I leave Greece I get this knot in my throat and it feels as if a part of my heart stays behind. The feeling doesn’t get any better with the years and now that I have kids it probably becomes worse. I am so lucky to have been born in this paradise, raised with the Greek values, among incredible people and in places that have inspired zillion artists all over the world. And cannot help feeling terrible for departing to a more ‘comfortable’ life, leaving behind a nation that could use some of the help from all of us abroad in its current dramatic situation, to emerge from the shit it entered the past decade. I may advocate from abroad and educate others, I can visit Greece often and raise my children as half Greek, but still I am not there.
On our way to Igoumenitsa we refused to do anything at all that could jeopardize us being on time. We arrived 3,5 hrs earlier – ok, we exaggerated a little. Imagine our faces when we heard there would be a minimum of 3 hrs delay on the ferry. YOU CAN NEVER GET THESE STUFF RIGHT. Ever. And we did what everyone else did: camped in the harbor:
I brought souvlakia, we put Alex and Gioia in bed and just then the boat arrived. Kids out, lots of crying from the little fatboy who was forced to wake up, entering the boat, queueing for the cabin key, someone that felt sorry for me with two kids flipping giving me priority. Thank you stranger! Gioia ended up sleeping at midnight that night – personal record.
We were thrilled to be back in the camper the day after: by far the best and most comfortable accommodation. Back to bella Italia, even Ancona seemed not too bad. We spent the night in an agri-camping, in a beautiful green hill with view to wineries and a village with a castle. We were alone when we arrived, Gioia had her private playground – quite a contrast with the panic of Lichnos. Martina would come to find us after work for dinner, last time we met was 7 years ago in our housewarming party in Amsterdam. Che bella Martina! Sweet, funny, energetic, so lovely to see her again and catch up on everything that happened in between!
And then, the official return trip started. No more friends visits, parties in the mountains, chilling next to the sea, lunar eclipses and lovely people. We have one week to go back and if you think this is comfortable enough, I will say yes and no.
Last night we found a nice camping again, in a hilly green landscape, so we realized this last week can still look and feel like holiday instead if a race. We spent quite some time with the 4 of us in the swimming pool and ate like pigs in the camping restaurant. Hopefully one day I will be back to my pre-pregnancy weight, but this can never happen in Italy. Also not in Greece.
Back on the road, we are heading home. I try to ignore the forecast for rain in Amsterdam the day we arrive. I hear you thinking: you cannot have it all. WHY NOT?